On the Trail Poachers Illegally Trapping China's Rare Singing Birds.
The conservationist's gaze sweeps across miles of tall grassland, searching for signs of life in the inky blackness.
He speaks in a muted voice as we try to find a place of cover in the fields. Behind us, the vast metropolis of Beijing has yet to wake. As we wait, the only sound is the sound of breathing.
And then, as the sky begins to brighten with the approaching day, we hear footsteps. The hunters have arrived.
Trapped
Overhead, billions of birds, some tiny enough that they can fit in the cup of a hand, are journeying southward for winter.
They have utilized the warmer months in northern regions, feasting on insects and fruit. As the year comes to a close and chilling gusts bring the early cold of winter, they journey to more temperate climates to breed and eat.
The nation hosts over 1500 bird species, accounting for 13% of the world's total – more than 800 of those are birds that migrate. Four of the nine major migration routes they follow converge in China.
This particular field where we were, on the edges of the Chinese capital, is an haven for small birds – any further and the city skies offer little opportunity to rest among forests of concrete.
It is equally attractive for the poachers and their "fine nets", so fine you can hardly spot them.
The trap we stumbled upon was strung across a large section of the field and held up with wooden sticks. At its center, a small finch was fighting hard to escape, but the more it struggled, the more its feet got ensnared.
This was a protected songbird, a protected bird in China, and an important "indicator species" – which signifies if its population is healthy, so is its ecosystem.
Tracking the Trappers
The conservationist, in his thirties, performs this duty for free using his own savings. He has given up on many sleeping hours to set songbirds free, and he has spent the last 10 years persuading the police in Beijing to enforce the law.
"Initially, authorities were indifferent," he remarks.
So he recruited volunteers who were concerned and launched a group known as the Beijing Migratory Bird Squad. He held public meetings and invited the leaders of the relevant authorities. These consistent and determined acts of persuasion have shown results. The police found that apprehending illegal hunters also helped in identifying other kinds of illegal operations.
"We found our objectives became partially aligned," Silva says, noting that implementation remains inconsistent.
This fascination with birds began during childhood. He grew up in the 1990s in a much changed capital.
He recalls roaming through the grasslands on the city's edges where he found birds, frogs and snakes. "However, beginning in the 2000s, everything changed."
Rapid economic growth brought millions of rural workers to cities. This fast-paced development meant grasslands were considered land for construction, not protected zones to conserve.
The transformation was alarming. The grasslands began to shrink, as did the wildlife they housed.
"I made the choice back then to dedicate myself to preservation and I took this path," he says.
It has not been an easy life. A major Beijing's biggest bird dealers discovered he was being investigated by Silva and fought back.
"He assembled several of his accomplices who surrounded me and beat me up," Silva recalls. He says he reported to the police but the perpetrators were not held accountable.
He has also lost his army of volunteers over the years. This work requires covert operations and lost sleep. Silva says not many are willing to take on the difficult – and sometimes dangerous job.
"This is my full-time commitment," he says. "I made it a project because if you want to tackle this challenge, you must give it your all. You can't do it part-time."
He says donations covers some of the costs – more than 100,000 yuan a year – but donations have dipped because of the slowing economy.
So he has found new ways to hunt the hunters.
He analyzes satellite imagery to find the routes worn away by the poachers. He maps those against the birds' migratory routes and looks for areas where they may stop for the night. The aerial views can even show lines of net traps which can capture scores of small birds at night.
"Siberian rubythroats and bluethroats command a high price," Silva says. "In urban centers like Beijing and Tianjin, those who want to keep birds are now quite wealthy."
Although there are environmental regulations in place, Silva reckons the fines to deter the activity do not exceed the potential profits of catching and selling songbirds.
Owning a pet bird was – and for some generations in China, still is – a status symbol. This dates back to the Qing dynasty. Nobles and elites would build elaborate bamboo cages for their birds.
This custom that persists mainly among retired men in their 60s or 70s. Silva says older Chinese people don't realise they are breaking the law, or grasp that numerous birds were killed in a trap for them to purchase a pet.
"This generation often lacked enough to eat in their youth. Now with a little money, they have adopted the practice of caging birds," he says. "The nation progressed so fast, there was little opportunity to raise awareness about the environment. Once adults' values are set, they're extremely difficult to change."
Busted
On a long low wall in Beijing, a vendor has several tiny enclosures with tiny twittering birds.
A separate individual is positioned near a nearby market holding a bird cage covered by a dark cloth. He tells passers-by discreetly that his songbird is valuable, worth about 1900 yuan.
This offers a view of an old Beijing where small unofficial traders have created their own market.
The area by the river stretches for several miles and on a sunny weekday morning, there were people looking at everything from vintage jewellery to dentures.
Information suggested that wild songbirds could be bought in a nearby green space. It was easy to find.
Loud music played from a speaker under the low trees where a group of elderly ladies were performing a traditional dance. Nearby several men, all over 50, had congregated with bird cages – some had multiple in their hands. Most were covered in dark cloth.
But today there would be no sales because the police had arrived. They were interviewing the bird owners and recording details. Defiant, one man claimed he was {taking his caged bird for a walk|simply exercising his