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Whenever compiling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might anticipate familiar high-end names. But, nestled near the top among these culinary heavyweights is a simple salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Recognition

The small Turkish spot, specialising in the culinary delights of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth top restaurant in the capital by a influential food magazine. This recognition has made the owners totally astonished.

“I’m totally shocked,” says the family member, referring to his family’s relentless work that resulted in their small restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

A Character of Modesty

The small shop, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing destination, has kept much of its original feel. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking performance, the setup remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” notes the owner.

The Star Creation: Tantuni

Ultimately, it’s all down to the food, and this eatery certainly delivers. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. Choice of meat—whether lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to preserve a succulent texture.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with flavours and oil, which are mixed in bit by bit. When the meaty mixture bubbles up, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is rolled securely inside.

It is usually consumed with a drizzle of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is cut up and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A leading food critic described this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For sweets, the restaurant’s künefe proves a treat. It is coated in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, toastier and not overly sweet taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this unassuming spot has outplaced several celebrated three-Michelin-starred restaurants. It finds itself close to the top of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could easily leave this place stuffed for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at high-end establishments can run into significantly more than that amount.

The Ethos of Warmth

The restaurant is also one of several Turkish restaurants included and is found well beyond the city’s central zones. “It is not about luxury. London is an costly city. It is belief that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I do not agree with that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is paramount is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is shared by the list’s curator, who stated that if he was in a role of authority, he would “require to make every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to show them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Perseverance

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not train at Michelin-starred establishments. “I am truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this eatery first opened its doors seven years ago. Its popularity is thanks to relentless, seven-day weeks of work.

“Our mum was extremely tired. She would source produce in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would do all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She was raising children and a house to manage as well. Each of these responsibilities forged her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he shares.

An Accomplishment for the Community

This restaurant’s accolade is set to resonate beyond its own doors. “I think many people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.